A Sour Cherry Gâteau Basque And The Berries We Brought Back From Vermont

I'm not the kind of person who buys souvenirs when I travel. I'm not much of a collector in general, except my props I suppose. I do not like trinkets on my shelves or clutter, but one thing I do love is to discover the foods of the region. I always bring something back.

When we visited the Brattelboro farmers' market in Vermont last weekend, I loaded up on all kind of berries.

Red currants are my weakness. So hard to find in Florida. I had to make sure to bring some home along with sour cherries and black raspberries.



I have been writing at night when the house is quiet.

I am two weeks away from turning in my manuscript. Completely submerged in writing and editing with hours spent in front of the computer. The kitchen becomes my getaway. My place of relaxation and even if it's preparing simple meals, it helps me clear my mind.

So when we returned from Vermont, I spent my free time baking with the berries I brought back home.



One of the pastry stands at the Brattleboro market had a very tempting gâteau basque on display (unfortunately not gluten-free). I turned to Nadia and said "I will be making it at home". And so I did.

The classic gâteau basque is a cross between a cake and a tart. Thick and tender shortdough encasing pastry cream and cherry preserves. (You can find a version I made years ago here).

My recipe is a gluten and dairy free version of the classic. Crunchy cake exterior with a creamy interior filled with pastry cream and fresh sour cherries. Everyone loved it.



I also made a red currant and sour cherry flan tart with leftover tart dough and custard for a recipe I was testing for the book. It was delicious as well. Anything with red currants is amazing in my book. I love the slight sour punch it adds to anything sweet.

There were also berry, ladyfinger and pastry cream verrines. I have had the ladyfingers in the freezer for a while after testing them for the book.

Freezer-cleaning desserts I call them.



I also wanted to tell you about a story I wrote a few weeks ago for one of my favorite allergen-free magazines, Living Without. The issue will not be out until October, but one of my photos for that issue has been selected for the cover (cover #1). You can vote here.

Hope you like it!

Gluten and Dairy Free Sour Cherry And Pastry Cream Gâteau Basque

Makes two 6-inch cakes

Pastry Cream

1 cup (250 ml) unsweetened coconut milk
2 cardamom pods, cracked
1/2 vanilla bean, split lengthwise and seeds scraped
3 egg yolks
1/4 cup (50 g) natural cane sugar
2 tablespoons (15 g) cornstarch

Combine the coconut milk, cardamom, and vanilla bean in medium saucepan. Bring to a simmer over medium heat. Remove from heat and steep for 10 minutes. Return back to heat and bring it back to a light simmer.

In the meantime, whisk together the egg yolks, sugar, and cornstarch in a bowl. Strain the simmering milk over the yolks and whisk immediately so the eggs don't curdle. Return custard back to the pot and cook stirring constantly, over medium high heat until it thickens. Transfer the pastry cream to a clean bowl and cool.

Cake

1 cup (140 g) superfine brown rice flour
1/2 cup (70 g) millet flour
1/3 cup (35 g) almond flour
1/3 cup (55 g) potato starch
2 teaspoons baking powder
1/4 teaspoon salt
Zest of 1 lemon
3 eggs
1 1/4 cup (250 g) natural cane sugar
1/2 vanilla bean, split lengthwise and seeds scraped
1/2 cup (125 ml) olive oil
1/4 cup (60 ml) unsweetened coconut milk
2 cups sour cherries, pitted

Pre-heat oven to 325F. Grease 2 (6-inch) cake pans. Line the bottom with parchment paper.

In a medium bowl, whisk together the dry ingredients. In a separate bowl, whisk together the eggs, sugar, vanilla seeds, olive oil, and coconut milk. Pour the wet ingredients over the dry and whisk to combine.

Spread a quarter of the batter on the bottom of each cake pan. Spread evenly. Spread half of the pastry cream over it, then half of the sour cherries on top. Top with the remaining cake batter.

Bake the cakes for 1 hour until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean. Let the cakes cool in the pan for 15 minutes. Invert onto a cooling rack and cool completely.

Seeking Comfort with an Avocado, Apple and Poached Salmon Soup

If you have been following this blog for some time, it will be no surprise to you that I have a tremendous sense of melancholy and nostalgia when it comes to food and all memories associated with it.

I very much romanticize about the act of cooking and eating.



Through the process of writing this book, I have dug deep into my childhood and growing up in a family of cooks. It seems as though every important event in my life has an aroma and taste associated with it. Whether it may be the smell of wet dirt still attached to the roots of leeks in the winter or the crackling sound of olive oil poached potatoes, food is the background of many of the stories of my life.

The soundtrack of my life. Yo La Tengo and food.



I spent large part of last week writing food-related stories, both past and current. I felt the connection to my past and I recognized an enhanced romanticism when I wrote about it.

"Was it all this wonderful?" I thought to myself. So hard to distinguish sometimes. I thought about it a lot over the weekend. I'm sure you relate to this feeling as well.



I can be in my head quite a bit sometimes and by Saturday, I started to feel a bit homesick. Too much thinking and too much writing drove me to the edge of exhaustion.

I called my best friend Jill who even from Italy, manages to sense how I am doing. "I cannot read your blog sometimes" she said. "I know you too well for that".

I got it. I knew what she meant.



I had finished and submitted another book chapter to my editor by Saturday, so I took the weekend off from thinking, writing, editing, and all things work-related.

I quickly blended a soup of avocados, cucumber, and apple. Served it with olive oil-poached salmon, radishes, and watercress.

For dessert, last year's apricot tart. The simplest tart you can make.



I needed to experience cooking and food in a practical way, not always needing to associate it to an emotion or a feeling.

But is that even possible?

Not sure I am good at that, especially when I end up photographing what I have cooked. Then, food takes another dimension once again as photographing means recreating the moment, the mood in which this dish was created. Photographing means creating an emotion.

I just cannot escape it.



Avocado and Apple Soup with Poached Salmon

Serves 4

8 oz salmon
1/4 tsp salt
1/8 tsp black pepper
1/4 cup olive oil

2 ripe avocados, peeled, pit removed and diced
1 medium green apple, peeled, cored and diced
1 medium cucumber, peeled, seeded and diced
1/4 cup diced yellow onion
Juice of half a lemon
2 1/2 cups vegetable stock
1/2 tsp salt
1/4 tsp black pepper
1/4 cup thinly sliced radishes
1/4 cup sliced green onions
Watercress

Season the salmon with salt and pepper. In a small saute pan, heat the olive oil over medium heat until warm. Submerge the salmon and let it cook slowly for 5 to 7 minutes until the outside is no longer opaque but center is still slightly pink.

Meanwhile, puree the avocados, apple, cucumber, onion, vegetable stock, salt and pepper in a blender. Adjust seasoning. It will be thick. Add more stock if desired.

Serve the soup at room temperature with the flaked salmon, radishes, green onions and some watercress leaves.

Roasted Tomato Tart, Rainier Cherries And Scenes From A Weekend

"The baby goats were born this morning" Robert texted me last Monday. We had just been to the farm with the kids a few days prior and we could see that the baby goat mamma Daisy was due any minute.

"We will stop by this weekend. I can't wait to see them" I texted back.



We had lots of plans for the weekend. It was C's 40th birthday after all and although he wanted to keep it quiet, we invited some friends over for dinner. We spent Sunday morning cooking and getting the house ready for our guests. C. even woke up at insane hours of the night to get his smoked brisket going. This man is obsessed with barbecue.



We planned a very relaxed summer menu. Just the way I like to eat. A little bit of this, a little bit of that. Very similar to the summer parties we throw back home.

Our menus are always eclectic, but that seems to be what friends like about them. The unexpected, I suppose.

On my side I had planned to make a tortilla de patatas (a must have every time my friend Deena comes over). Also a fennel, zucchini and Rainier cherry salad, a roasted tomato and watercress tart, cherry and hazelnut gratin and chocolate chip cookie ice cream sandwiches. Not bad, I thought.



"I have to run to Robert and Paula's to get eggs for the tart and the tortilla before it's too late" I told C.

Jon was too busy playing with water balloons with the neighborhood kids, so I put Miren in the car and drove to the farm. I was excited for her to see the new babies, Peanut and Peabody.



It was early afternoon. The rain that had fallen the day before combined with the high temperatures made for a very humid day. The babies were hiding inside their crate while the rest of the animals found shelter under the trees. Not even the chickens wanted to come out. I didn't blame them.

Miren was mesmerized by the babies. Even at a week old they were playful around each other. What a beautiful sight.

We picked some tomatoes and purple peppers for the party. "They smell like they have already been roasted!" I told Robert.

Have you ever smelled purple pepper? So intense and smoky. I made the best salad with them the following day.



We came back home to finish cooking. Luckily the kids got to nap and rest before friends arrived, which always helps.

I managed to take a photo of the table with my phone.

A feast, no?



Roasted Tomato and Watercress Tart

Roasted Tomatoes

3 medium tomatoes (about 1 lb 4 oz or 560 g), sliced into 1/4" rounds
1 tsp salt
1/2 tsp black pepper
2 Tbs olive oil
bunch of fresh thyme

Pre-heat oven to 300F.

Drizzle the bottom of a sheet pan with 1 Tbs of olive oil. Sprinkle 1/2 tsp salt and 1/4 tsp pepper on top. Lay the tomato slices on the pan. Drizzle the remaining olive oil, salt, pepper and thyme.

Bake the tomatoes for 1 1/2 hours or until soft but still hold their shape. Reserve.

Tart Crust

2/3 cup (90 g) superfine brown rice flour
1/3 cup (45 g) quinoa flour
1/4 cup (40 g) potato starch
1/2 tsp salt
1/4 tsp black pepper
2 tsp thyme leaves
8 Tbs (110 g) cold unsalted butter, diced (I used non hydrogenated shortening)
5-6 Tbs ice water

Combine the first six ingredients in the food processor. Pulse to combine. Add the diced and cold butter and pulse until the butter is cut into the flour into pea size pieces. Add the ice water and pulse until the dough comes together. It will not form a ball, just press it to see if it holds together. Add 1 Tbs of ice water if needed.

Transfer the dough t your work surface and press it together into a disk. Wrap in plastic wrap and chill for 1 hour.

Dust your surface with superfine brown rice flour. Roll the dough to 1/8" thickness. Fill a 9" tart mold with the dough. Cut off excess dough. Chill the tart for another 30 minutes while preparing the filling.

Roasted Tomato and Watercress Filling

Bunch of fresh watercress, stems removed
Roasted tomatoes
2 eggs
1 Tbs plus 2 tsp cornstarch (12 g)
1 cup unsweetened coconut milk
1/4 tsp salt
1/4 tsp black pepper
Pinch of freshly ground nutmeg
2 oz mozzarella (I used the cheese substitute Daiya)


Pre-heat oven to 400F.

Fill the bottom of the chilled tart with the roasted tomatoes. Add the watercress on top.

In a bowl, whisk together the rest of the ingredients. Pour over the tomatoes.

Bake for 30 minutes or until tope is golden brown. Cool for 20 minutes before slicing.

English Peas, Buckwheat Greens And A Strawberry Tart

It has been quite hectic around here.

During these past couple of weeks, I have had to park my book writing routine aside to focus on a couple of other projects I am super excited about. I wish I could share more, but we will have to wait. All I can say is that it involves a major magazine and I had a blast.

However, all of this has taken a bit of a toll on me.



When I woke up Sunday, I felt as though I had run a marathon. Sore and exhausted.

C. encouraged me to take some time for myself in the morning. He took the kids and I headed to the farmers' market. I find it relaxing to walk around, people watch and get inspired by the produce and talking to the farmers I have come to know this year.



Unfortunately, it was the last day of the market. Yes, when the rest of the country is just now gearing up for their growing season, ours is coming to an end. Well, not exactly. Things will still grow in the summer, but much slower and not so abundant. Most of the farmers I know take the summer off to travel and learn from other farmers.

As it was the last day, I indulged in everything I saw. The usual suspects such as eight ball zucchini, heirloom tomatoes, strawberries, mulberries, farm eggs, kale, beets, english peas... But I also found buckwheat greens.



This was the first time I had even seen buckwheat greens. Beautiful greens with tiny little flowers.

As I started to read about them, I found out that they can be somewhat toxic when consumed in large amounts and that is why they are not recommended in juicing. However, a small amount can be beneficial.

Sunday night, I made a quick soup with English peas and buckwheat greens. The soup was tasty and mild. Spinach or even lettuce would work just as well.



When Monday came around, I was ready to start testing more recipes for the book.

I really feel so lucky to be able to do what I love. Time flies when I am working and enjoy every second of it.

But when time flies, lunch must also be quick. Crushed pea, cherry tomato and goat cheese tartines to go with leftover soup from the night before. I blanched some English peas in salted boiling water, then crushed them with a fork. Mixed with goat cheese, scallions, olive oil, salt and pepper on toasted gluten-free bread.



I was testing a new tart dough and with the leftovers, I made a quick almond and strawberry tartlet that Miren and I had for dessert. Took a couple of chairs outside and had an impromptu picnic in the back lawn.

Then back to work.

English Pea and Buckwheat Greens Soup

Serves 4

2 Tbs olive oil
1 leek, white part only diced
1 garlic clove, minced
1 medium potato, peeled and diced
2 cups shelled peas
2 cups buckwheat greens or spinach
1/2 tsp salt
1/4 tsp black pepper
5 sprigs thyme leaves
3 cups chicken stock
Goat cheese, optional
Chopped scallions, optional
Olive oil

In a small pot, heat the olive oil over medium heat. Add the leek and the garlic and cook for 3 minutes until soft.

Add the rest of the ingredients and bring the liquid to a boil. Cover the pot, reduce heat to medium low and let it simmer for 15 minutes or until soft.

Puree the soup. Serve with chopped scallions, goat cheese, drizzle of olive oil, and toasted bread.


Strawberry and Almond Tart

Makes 6 3-inch tartlets

Pie crust of your choice (mine was gluten free)
½ cup (110 g) unsalted butter, room temperature
½ cup (110 g) natural cane sugar
1 egg
½ tsp almond extract
1 cup (110 g) almond flour
1 Tbs (10 g) tapioca starch
¼ tsp salt
2 cups sliced strawberries

Pre-heat oven to 400F.

In a stand mixer, cream the butter and sugar with the paddle attachment until light. Add the egg and almond extract and mix until combined. Add the dry ingredients and mix.

Roll out the pie dough to 1/4-inch thickness. Cut 6 4-inch disks and fill tart molds with them. Cut off excess dough.

Fill the tart molds with frangipane and arrange the sliced strawberries on top. Bake for 20 to 25 minutes until crust golden.