There Is Always Chocolate In The Summer

Summer is usually all about fruit for me. Peaches, apricots, cherries, melon, and a array of sweet and tart berries. I turn them into tarts, muffins, sorbets and ice cream... Sometimes even into savory dishes. But one can only stay away from chocolate for so long. I try, believe me -- with no result.







I spent a lot of time at home last week working on the finishing touches of the manuscript. "What is new?" you might be wondering. So does everyone else in my life.



"Maybe you should get some fresh air?" my mom tells me everyday over the phone. "Go for a walk and get some fresh air" I'm counting down the days when I get to do that with her.



One more week and I will be back home.







I have been revisiting some of the recipes in the book. Baking them over and over again and seeing that they work every time gives me a sense of peace. I can get very obsessive about details and when I think of a recipe that was tested a while ago, I tend to think "What if it doesn't work!". I panic. Then I jump into the kitchen.



Last week there were many chocolate recipes. I craved them. The intensity and richness.







I made my favorite dark chocolate and hazelnut cake. Very moist... almost the texture of a brownie. It works every time.



I also made chocolate pots de creme with raspberries and currants. You can find a similar recipe here. And with leftover chocolate tart dough, I made a chocolate, black and red raspberry, and currant galette.



I certainly got my fix.







In a few more days, I will be done. My manuscript will be in the hands of my editor and there will be a big sigh of relief (mine, of course). Then we will be off to the Basque Country for some quiet family time, food, and another Robin Food show.



But for now. I must return to my book.... with a slice of chocolate cake right next to me.

A Sour Cherry Gâteau Basque And The Berries We Brought Back From Vermont

I'm not the kind of person who buys souvenirs when I travel. I'm not much of a collector in general, except my props I suppose. I do not like trinkets on my shelves or clutter, but one thing I do love is to discover the foods of the region. I always bring something back.

When we visited the Brattelboro farmers' market in Vermont last weekend, I loaded up on all kind of berries.

Red currants are my weakness. So hard to find in Florida. I had to make sure to bring some home along with sour cherries and black raspberries.



I have been writing at night when the house is quiet.

I am two weeks away from turning in my manuscript. Completely submerged in writing and editing with hours spent in front of the computer. The kitchen becomes my getaway. My place of relaxation and even if it's preparing simple meals, it helps me clear my mind.

So when we returned from Vermont, I spent my free time baking with the berries I brought back home.



One of the pastry stands at the Brattleboro market had a very tempting gâteau basque on display (unfortunately not gluten-free). I turned to Nadia and said "I will be making it at home". And so I did.

The classic gâteau basque is a cross between a cake and a tart. Thick and tender shortdough encasing pastry cream and cherry preserves. (You can find a version I made years ago here).

My recipe is a gluten and dairy free version of the classic. Crunchy cake exterior with a creamy interior filled with pastry cream and fresh sour cherries. Everyone loved it.



I also made a red currant and sour cherry flan tart with leftover tart dough and custard for a recipe I was testing for the book. It was delicious as well. Anything with red currants is amazing in my book. I love the slight sour punch it adds to anything sweet.

There were also berry, ladyfinger and pastry cream verrines. I have had the ladyfingers in the freezer for a while after testing them for the book.

Freezer-cleaning desserts I call them.



I also wanted to tell you about a story I wrote a few weeks ago for one of my favorite allergen-free magazines, Living Without. The issue will not be out until October, but one of my photos for that issue has been selected for the cover (cover #1). You can vote here.

Hope you like it!

Gluten and Dairy Free Sour Cherry And Pastry Cream Gâteau Basque

Makes two 6-inch cakes

Pastry Cream

1 cup (250 ml) unsweetened coconut milk
2 cardamom pods, cracked
1/2 vanilla bean, split lengthwise and seeds scraped
3 egg yolks
1/4 cup (50 g) natural cane sugar
2 tablespoons (15 g) cornstarch

Combine the coconut milk, cardamom, and vanilla bean in medium saucepan. Bring to a simmer over medium heat. Remove from heat and steep for 10 minutes. Return back to heat and bring it back to a light simmer.

In the meantime, whisk together the egg yolks, sugar, and cornstarch in a bowl. Strain the simmering milk over the yolks and whisk immediately so the eggs don't curdle. Return custard back to the pot and cook stirring constantly, over medium high heat until it thickens. Transfer the pastry cream to a clean bowl and cool.

Cake

1 cup (140 g) superfine brown rice flour
1/2 cup (70 g) millet flour
1/3 cup (35 g) almond flour
1/3 cup (55 g) potato starch
2 teaspoons baking powder
1/4 teaspoon salt
Zest of 1 lemon
3 eggs
1 1/4 cup (250 g) natural cane sugar
1/2 vanilla bean, split lengthwise and seeds scraped
1/2 cup (125 ml) olive oil
1/4 cup (60 ml) unsweetened coconut milk
2 cups sour cherries, pitted

Pre-heat oven to 325F. Grease 2 (6-inch) cake pans. Line the bottom with parchment paper.

In a medium bowl, whisk together the dry ingredients. In a separate bowl, whisk together the eggs, sugar, vanilla seeds, olive oil, and coconut milk. Pour the wet ingredients over the dry and whisk to combine.

Spread a quarter of the batter on the bottom of each cake pan. Spread evenly. Spread half of the pastry cream over it, then half of the sour cherries on top. Top with the remaining cake batter.

Bake the cakes for 1 hour until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean. Let the cakes cool in the pan for 15 minutes. Invert onto a cooling rack and cool completely.

Nine Cakes

Speaking of Tara yesterday, she also shared with me a recent design projects which included the branding of the website Nine Cakes. Aren't those cakes gorgeous!


(Photos by Jen Huang from Nine Cakes)

Flag Cakes

While looking for a photo on my computer the other day, I came across these in my archives and thought they suited the upcoming Fourth of July holiday. I was cracking up over the top shot of my brother looking pretty unsure about his melting flag cake! My mom made some pretty creative and fun cakes for us kids growing up, thanks Mom. The photo of the 60-year-old is my Grandpa!

The Season of Cherries

I came back from BlogHer Food in Atlanta Sunday afternoon. I wish I had a detailed report for you guys, but the truth is that I really was unable to attend most events and festivities. It was great to catch up with friends and also finally meet those who I have come to know through blogging.

Tami, Stephanie and I spoke in the visuals panel where we discussed our own evolutions and philosophy when finding our voices and styles. I thoroughly enjoyed the experience and I think we could have gone on for another few hours had we been given the time. There were lots of questions and positive feedback and I happened to learn lots myself.



As soon as I walked in the door, I remembered the large bowl of cherries I left in the refrigerator before I left. I was in desperate need of something refreshing and light. I dropped my bags and started slicing fennel, cucumber and spring onions. Also added some pitted cherries and made a quick vinaigrette with apple cider vinegar.

It hit the spot.

"Where are you guys?" I texted C. "Still swimming" he replied.

Then I knew I would have time for a quick dessert for dinner and perhaps, even a nap.



I turned to this gluten and dairy free cherry and cardamom custard I had made a few days before. Somewhere in between a clafoutis and a flan, this custard is made with coconut and almond milk that are flavored with vanilla bean, lemon zest, and cardamom. I loved it the first time I made it and I knew everyone would enjoy it again.

Once it came out of the oven, I took Miren to my bed and whispered "We are going lo-lo". She understood and immediately closed her eyes.

I needed that.



Jon was excited to have his sister back. "I missed her amatxu!" he acknowledged. He picked up a bowl of the cherry cardamom custard and proceeded to tell me all about his weekend.

There are never enough words when you are 4 years old...

Almost 5.



Cherry and Cardamom Custard

1 pound (450 g) bing cherries, pitted
1 1/2 cups (375 ml) coconut milk
1 1/2 cups (375 ml) almond milk
1 vanilla bean, split lengthwise and scraped
4 cardamom pods, cracked
4 eggs
1/2 cup plus 2 Tbs (125 g) natural cane sugar
1/2 cup (70 g) superfine brown rice flour
1/4 cup (40 g) potato starch
2 Tbs (12 g) almond flour
1/4 tsp salt

Preheat oven to 425F. Grease a 9" pie or cake pan. Pit the cherries and arrange them in the pan.

In a small saucepan, combine the coconut milk, almond milk, vanilla bean and seeds, and cardamom pods. Bring to a light simmer, turn heat off, and let it steep for 5 minutes.

In a separate bowl, whisk together the eggs, sugar, brown rice flour, potato starch, almond flour, and salt. Place a fine sieve on top of the bowl. Pour the warm milk mixture over the eggs so that the strainer catches the pods and vanilla bean. Whisk all ingredients together. Skim any foam that might have formed on the surface and pour the custard over the cherries.

Bake at 425F for 10 minutes. Reduce heat to 350F and bake another 25-30 minutes until center set.

Mulberry and Rhubarb Crumb Cake

"Can I come and get some eggs?" I asked Robert early one morning. "Sure. I will have something for you when you get here" he replied.

I drive to their farm at least once a week these days. So many new recipes to test that I never seem to have enough eggs. It is also a great excuse to say hi to the goats and the chickens, as well as watching how the garden is growing.

"It is getting too hot" he explained. The brussels sprouts didn't make it, nor did the tiny wild strawberries.



But as I was getting ready to leave, he reached in the cooler and brought out this basket full of ripe mulberries. Deep purple, soft, sweet and as large as I have ever seen them.

A "whoa" escaped me. I was so excited. Hand picked the day before.

When I came home, I pulled out some frozen rhubarb and made a quick crumb cake before Jon got home from school. A sweet afternoon treat.

I wish I had someone to photograph my hands right after. Purple as can be.




I also wanted to remind you that this Thursday will be the last day to vote for Saveur's 2011 Best Food Blog Awards where one of my images was nominated for Best Food Photo.

Saveur also posted a very interesting timeline of the history of food blogs, where I was listed among amazing food bloggers.

Also, next week I will be speaking at this year's BlogHer Food Conference in Atlanta. Will you be attending?

Mulberry and Rhubarb Crumb Cakes

adapted from Martha Stewart Living

Makes a 9"x9" tart pan

6 Tbs unsalted butter, melted
1/2 cup light brown sugar
1/4 tsp salt
2/3 cup superfine brown rice flour
1/4 cup quinoa flour
2 Tbs almond flour
2 Tbs potato starch


1/2 cup unsalted butter, room tempertaure
1 cup powdered sugar
1 tsp vanilla extract
1 tsp lemon zest
2 eggs, room temperature
1/3 cup superfine brown rice flour
1/3 cup quinoa flour
2 Tbs almond flour
1/2 tsp baking powder
1/4 tsp salt

1 1/2 cups ripe mulberries
1 cup diced rhubarb

Mix the first seven ingredients in a bowl until it forms a crumble. Chill it for 20 minutes.

Pre-heat oven to 350F. In the bowl of a stand mixer, cream the butter and powdered sugar together. Add the vanilla extract and lemon zest. Scrape the sides of the bowl. Add the eggs one at a time. Mix and scrape the bowl well. Add the dry ingredients and mix until the batter comes together.

Grease a 9"x9" square tart pan. Spread the cake batter evenly. Top the batter with the mulberries and rhubarb. Top the fruit with the chilled crumble (there might be some leftover crumble that you can freeze for another time).

Bake for 30 to 40 minutes or until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean. Let the cake cool, then cut it into 2 inch squares.

The Day We Went Fishing

I woke up on Saturday morning without any goals or expectations for the weekend. I have been so busy lately that I just needed a day to catch my breath and just be. It doesn't happen often.

As I was making our usual weekend breakfast of pancakes (this time coconut, almond, and blueberry), I asked C. if he had any plans for the day. "J. and I are going fishing with Paul this afternoon, didn't you know?". Perhaps he had mentioned it, but it had escaped me.

Sounded like the perfect plan.



Honestly, although I do love being outside and in nature, I have never been very good with outdoor sports, which makes me the oddball in the family as everyone else is. I grew up with my grandfather, uncles and cousins always talking about bird hunting, fishing, mushroom picking...

There were always fishing poles, wellies and wicker baskets in the pastry shop. As soon as the work day was over, which was sometimes as early as noon, they would all hit the river or the mountains around us.

I enjoy just being in nature and watching others, but I can count with one hand the times that I actually participated in the events.



We met Paul in Juno Beach. It was a particularly windy day and the current was strong. I never thought that fishing right on the shore in these conditions was a possibility. But I trusted them, of course.

J. was fascinated with all the sand fleas, clam strips, and different bait that the grown ups had. Miren was just happy. Running around and throwing wet sand to the birds around.

I just sat and watched them closely. I took it all in. The wind, the smell of the ocean, the sun on my shoulders and especially, the kids.



It was about an hour into fishing when I saw C. struggle with his pole. There it was, a beautiful, silver and blue pompano. A beautiful thing. And not to sound overly romantic, but that day, I appreciated that fish more than anything. I had to explain to J. how that pompano gave up its life for us. He stared at me as I was saying it. I knew his mind was trying to process it all.

We arrived home exhausted and saved the pompano for Sunday.



After the farmers' market trip on Sunday morning, I stopped by Karen's house. She shared some of her cherry tomatoes with us and I thought they would be perfect with the fish.

Tomatoes tossed in olive oil and salt and roasted are one of the best things in life.



I even showed J. how to clean the fish, something my own mom had taught me when I was young. Possibly as young as 11 I was already cleaning whole fish. I particularly remember the tiny anchovies, one by one, spine and all.



We roasted the fish simply with salt, lemon slices, lots of herbs, a drizzle of olive oil. 400F for 20 minutes. Perfect.

Served it with the roasted tomatoes. Also a raw purple carrot and dill salad.

The perfect Sunday lunch.



We spent Sunday afternoon at home. The boys built an amazing tunnel and slide track for all of J's marbles and mighty beans (again, don't ask!), while I baked these lemon, pistachio and poppy seed cakes.

No complaints there.

And so I got my rest and that is exactly what I needed.




I also wanted to let you know that I have been invited to be a speaker at this year's BlogHer Food, which will be held in Atlanta on May 20-21. Tami, Stephanie and I will share a panel to discuss "Finding Your Visual Voice" and our own personal experiences with food styling and photography.

If you are attending, please say hi. Hope to see you there!


Lemon, Pistachio and Poppy Seed Cakes

Makes 1 dozen cupcake size cakes

2 eggs
1/2 cup (100 grams) natural cane sugar
1 Tbs lemon zest
1 Tbs lemon juice
1/4 cup + 2 Tbs olive oil (85 ml) olive oil
1/4 cup (60 ml) almond milk
1/3 cup (35 grams) pistachio meal
1/3 cup (45 grams) superfine brown rice flour
1/4 cup (35 grams) millet flour
2 Tbs (15 grams) tapioca starch
2 Tbs poppy seeds
1 tsp baking powder
1/2 tsp salt


Pre-heat oven to 350F (180C).

In a small bowl, whisk together the eggs, sugar, lemon zest, lemon juice, olive oil and almond milk.

In a separate large bowl, whisk together the dry ingredients. Add the wet to the dry and stir until it comes together.

Pour the batter into a muffin pan lined with baking papers. Bake for 12 to 15 minutes. Let cool completely.